CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 8

We accidentally stumbled on to this frozen lake as we strolled along the Hutongs of Xinjiekou.

Houhai Lake

HOUHAI LAKE
This is the largest lake of the three lakes connected to each another - Houhai, Xihai and Qianhai.

We entered the west side of the lake, where Houhai Lake connects to Xihai Lake. It's a long-stretched, willow tree shaded walkway.

A vast view of the glimmering frozen lake that stretches as far as the eye can see. There were rows and rows of docked boats stuck in the frozen water.

Photography At Its Best
It's the kind of place I get pumped up. Plenty of opportunities for some of the most amazing winterscapes photography.

Beautiful red berries on leaf-less trees. Rows of parked maroon-covered rickshaws. Red-lacquered doors and doorways of the neighborhood shops.

Local guys and adorable kids on their winter clothes.

Willow trees reaching down the frozen lake and a towering pagoda temple across to the other side of the lake, the Wanghai Tower.

Perfect Time to Slow Down
I wish I could spend more time just sitting. Watch the stillwater absorbs the soft light of the late afternoon sun while the birds land on its surface.

I would love to just grabbed some tea, sit, and just watch the world passes me by.

But because the place is vast, like everything else in Beijing, we had to drum up our pace to cover more areas.

More Shops
We crossed the arch bridge (Yinding Bridge) that connects to the other side of the lake, where more shops and restaurants were located.

Continued walking eastward to where the many interesting little shops tucked amongst the more upscale bars and restaurants.

There were many people walking around in that part of the lake. 

The neighborhood around Houhai was converted into hang-out spots since the early 2000s. It became very popular to tourists and the local hip crowds.

Locals selling laser beams and flying things. Food stalls, souvenir shops, arts and crafts.

I bought three old lanterns and a mask to bring back home with me.

When we reached the end of Houhai Lake (where it connects to Qianhai Lake), we found a Starbucks. Perfect place to take a leak in a more familiar restroom. A far departure from the public restrooms around the Hutongs.

How to Get to Houhai Lake?
Take the subway from line 1 Sihui East to Dongdan station, then transfer to line 5 to Zhangzizhonglu station. Then take the bus 42/823/701/13/118 to the north gate of the North Sea. Then walk north on this road. Ask for the Bell Tower or Drum Tower.

Please continue reading on to PART 9.

A really awesome China!

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CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 9

Tiananmen Square is an immensely huge square in the center of Beijing, third biggest in the world.

Within this huge square, many government structures and monuments are to be found. The National Museum of China on the east side of the Square. The Great Hall of the People on the west side of the Square. The Zhengyangmen Gate Tower to the south end of Tiananmen Square. The Monument to the People's Heroes and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong occupy the center of the Square.

Tiananmen Square

MILITARY GUARDS

We got off at the Tiananmen West subway and climbed out into the Square. I got overwhelmed by the vastness of the square. So many people were scurrying around. Military guards in full attention on their assigned spots or posts. Some were marching toward each other exchanging posts.

Military Guards

It's the ultimate sight which indeed reminded me that I was in the midst of the Communist Republic of China.

THE MASSACRE OF 1989

I have read the story about the Tiananmen Square Massacre of 1989 and this was the place where it all took place; that human rights drama (whatever happened to that tank man?)

Center of China’s Communist Sovereignty

It is surrounded with official buildings that look very imposing and intimidating. A large portrait painting of their leader plastered up high on the wall. Bold red Chinese character on a banner.

It is also here where they hold many huge military marches and gatherings of the government leaders to address their citizens and to the whole world to see.

Public Toilet Propaganda
Even the public toilet we walked in had a TV monitor that continually showing government propaganda. Chinese armies marching impressively in perfect formation and the equally valiant women marching like a platoon ready for battle. It’s giving me the impression how powerful this government over its people. An extremely disciplined army. Very intimidating show of power.

Military Guards

Tiananmen means the Gate of Heavenly Peace. There are three tower gates. The first gate is the Tiananmen Gate. The gate leading to the Forbidden City.

It seemed like there were guards in every meter apart. The guards were mostly young, stern, and good-looking. They’re inside a yellow rope separated from the crowd.

Guards manning the crowd

Entering the Forbidden Line

I noticed one guard quickly went over the yellow police line and charged towards this woman, probably in her late 40s, then held her up high by the collar and pushed her against the wall, conversing in Chinese very rapidly.

It seemed like the woman was in the wrong line. I just kept on walking forward so not to appear like I was overly concerned to what I have just witnessed. People chose to ignore the commotion. I thought, ok, these military police are really freakin’ strict.

We walked over a bridge. There were five short bridges connecting to the gate. As you cross one short bridge, you will enter through a high-arched gate with massive doors.

Gate corridor

Inside was a huge court yard. A large crowd were walking in all directions. In spite of all the people, it did not seem too crowded because the place was immense.

THE FORBIDDEN CITY

No fees to get in within the two tower gates. But there's a fee of 40RMB to enter the third gate. The gate to the famous Forbidden City - called the Meridian Gate.

The Forbidden City was the Chinese Imperial Palace from hundred of years ago. More familiar if you’ve seen the movie the Last Emperor.

The Forbidden City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has the largest collection of preserved ancient wooden structures in the world. It consists of 980 surviving buildings and is surrounded by giant walls.

No Time for the Forbidden City
It was closing within 30 minutes at the time we got to the ticketing booth; not enough time for us to see the huge place so we opted not to go in anymore.

There were lots of places to explore in its immediate surroundings anyway; enough to fill up our time. So impressed as I looked closer to those massively high retaining walls.

Retaining wall

Military guards do not appreciate being photographed, although one handsome guard I photographed didn’t seem to mind.

Rules were strictly enforced. No sitting to just anywhere, although I didn’t really see any bench around or nooks to sit on.

We slowly eased out of the place and looked for a place to eat. We did not find any diners near the square so we wandered off. I enjoyed the walk and stumbled upon the Beijing National Center for the Performing Arts, also known as the Giant Egg. See PART 10.

Tian'anmen At Night
We got back to the square at night fall coming from the Giant Egg and saw the Square at night; beautifully lit Tiananmen Gate gave a different perspective and a wonderfully calmer atmosphere.

Tiananmen at night

Every lamp post was equipped with speakers which can put across a message to a huge crowd (in Chinese). Soldiers came and dispersed everyone at 10:30 PM and sealed the place off for the night.

Flag raising ceremony is also a must-see when visiting the Square, just make sure you get there early to beat the crowd. Like before-sunrise early.

How to get to Tiananmen Square
Take the subway line 1, get off at Tiananmen Dong or Tiananmen Xi Station. Subway Line 2: get off at Qianmen Station. Get out from Exit A or B and walk north.

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CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 10

Immediately to the west of Tiananmen Square was this giant egg floating on water, also known as Beijing National Center for the Performing Arts.

THE GIANT EGG

As we were walking away from Tiananmen Square to find food, we stumbled upon this gorgeous-looking architectural wonder.

Beijing National Center for the Performing Arts

As we got closer, I was awed by the extravagance of its dome. I ogled. It was so magnificent. An architectural masterpiece. A giant egg floating on water.

I can only describe it as I saw it. But after a little research, I found out that it is covered with titanium plates to about ¾ of its area and the other ¼ with ultra-white glass sheets. This creates a dramatic visual effect as if the curtain is being drawn apart slowly right before your very eyes.

It is the largest dome in the world and why not, it is in China after all. Surrounded by a crystal-clear artificial lake that never freezes in winter and algae-free during summer, through the aid of an advance technology of course.

Its water feature extends to all the entrances, giving you the feeling of a submerged center as you enter. The reflections of the center and its lights were so gorgeous over the water below. A beautiful contrast to the Great Hall of the People next door.

Beijing National Center for the Performing Arts.
It is an opera house, a concert hall, and a theater. All rolled into one. Each venue were separated with its own stage. Symphonies, dance shows, ballets, dramas, operas and other kinds of performances are frequently staged in here.

Steps

We did not stay too long. We headed back to the Square where the subway station was. Going for our next stop, the Silk Street and Beijing Central Financial District.

Heading to the subway station

How to Get to the Giant Egg
Subway Line 1: get off at Tiananmen West Station and get out of the station from Exit C. There is an underground passageway to the theater directly.

Please continue reading on to PART 11.

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CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 11

We got off at Yonganli Stop subway station to explore Chaoyang District. This is where the Silk Street and BCBD are located.

Chaoyang District

SILK STREET

Silk Street is a shopping mall that carries everything you would expect in a bargain market and then some.

Their most popular product of course is silk, hence the name. Many of high quality traditional silks were sold there. They even have a museum on the third floor for silk. You can explore the many floors of the market and find a plethora of other traditional Chinese products like tea, medicines, porcelain, paintings, calligraphy, jade – all very Sina.

Silk Street

Wild Wild East

Beware! You’re entering the gate of hard bargain shopping. Silk Market is the wild wild west or shall we say east of bargain shopping.

Vendors step in front of you as you walk by. They force you to see their products. And if you happen to look at a particular item and start asking prices, you’re in for a combat. You won’t be let out easily. A facial insult will ensue if you dare leave their stalls without buying anything.

Take It or Leave It
I entered one souvenir shop and looked at the items. I ended up getting three boxes of the terracotta warrior sets and some fridge magnets to bring home to friends. This is how it went down...

She gave me the price. Immediately, I counter-offered her 50% off the price. She said too low, impossible. She gave another price. I stuck with my asking price. No deal. It took me the "me-walking-away-and-she-running-after-me" moment. She grabbed my arm, promised an amount that she's sure I would agree to. Offered the price. Still, I didn’t agree. It was sort of fun the first few minutes of haggling, but it got old quickly. I just said, sorry but take it or leave it. She finally gave in, irritated face and all.

If you feel shy or embarrass haggling with the seller – this is definitely not the place for you. You’ll end up paying much more of what it should be; an item that’s basically inferior or an imitation.

Outside, it was another glorious night to take a stroll. Cool breeze. Nippy winter weather. Really joyful feeling. We strolled pass the China World Trade Center.

Chaoyang District

BCBD
Also in Chaoyang District is the Beijing Central Business District. It is the primary area of finance, media, and business services in Beijing. A number of embassies are also concentrated in this area.

The district was decked with countless holiday lights and giant christmas decors along the sidewalks.

BCBD

I saw this odd-looking building nearby called the CCTV Tower. A two inverted L-shape building joined at the top.

CCTV Tower

We crossed the National Road towards Park Hyatt Beijing Hotel to the other side. There were arrays of high-end shops; Hermes, Cartier and the likes.

We threaded inside the SOHO Villa and had dinner at a Chinese restaurant called Doctor Dumpling Restaurant. Great food. 

Soho Villa

This friendly Chinese dude was dining next to our table. We chatted. He suggested we do a day visit to Tianjin and experience the bullet train ride. So we thought, what an excellent idea. We might as well just do that first thing the next day.

Local guy

How to Get to the Silk Market & BCBD?

Subway Line 1 (get off at Yonganli Stop).

Silk Market Opening hours: 9:30 ~ 21:00

Please continue reading on to Part 12.

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CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 12

We're about to experience one of the fastest train ride the world has seen. The CRH or the China Railway High-speed.

China Railway High-speed

CRH TRAIN
China is one of the few pioneering countries that implement this kind of commuter transport; the very fast ones.

We took the subway Line 4 to get to the Beijing South Railway Station at Chezhan Road.

BEIJING SOUTH RAILWAY STATION
This train station serves the Beijing-Tianjin Intercity Rail and some other routes. It is huge. Second largest in Asia, after Shanghai Railway Station.

Beijing South Railway Station

It felt like we were in an airport. Enormous oval-shaped space. High glass ceiling. Airy. Bright. Rows and rows of chairs. I was totally overwhelmed.

We were off to Tianjin for a day-visit. And mainly, to experience the CRH train ride.

So many ticketing counters and automated ticketing machines. Buying tickets was quick and easy.

Automated Ticketing Machine

There were english signages which were very helpful. Many digital screens were installed, showing trip schedules and gate numbers.

Passport was required for foreign passengers.

Waiting to Board
After purchasing the tickets, we took a seat at the waiting area close to our designated gate, much like what we do in an airport. For first time passengers like me, I appreciated the comfort of this waiting area. Its got shops for food, beverages, coffees, etc.

Keep an eye onto the screen and pay close attention to the P.A. system for the boarding announcement.

All Aboard!
When our boarding time was called out, we cued in line, passed the ticket barrier, went into the gate, and down the escalator to where the trains were.

Escalator going down

No time to look around. Passengers were rushing to board.

We sort of got panic first because we might board the wrong coach. Each coach has a digital number flashing on it. We might enter the wrong coach.

Entering the train

We just boarded anyway without knowing if it was the correct coach because the train was about to close its doors.

It turned out, once you're inside, you can access other coaches and just look for your numbered seat.

We each got a complimentary bottled water upon upon showing your ticket to the conductor.

Seats were nice and comfy. Inside temperature was also nice and cool.

Smooth as Silk @ 332 KPH
When the train took off, I made a mental note of the sensations I felt (first-timer instincts). It was very smooth. It gotten so fast in a very short time. As the train hits the speed of about 332 KPH (there's a digital speed counter up front), it remained very smooth. No lateral jerking whatsoever. No vibrations. It felt like we were gliding on the track.

332 kmp

The landscape scenery outside was awesome, while the immediate view was a total blur from the incredibly fast speed.

It was a 25-minute ride from Beijing to Tianjin, that would normally takes 3 hours by a bus. A real showpiece of a technology.

How to get to the Beijing South Railway Station in Beijing China?

Subway Line 4 and Line 14. Get off at the Basement 3 of Beijing South Railway Station.

Please continue reading on to PART 13.

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CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 13

We arrived at the Tianjin Railway Station at 12PM. It was a 25-minute train ride from Beijing Railway Station. Just like the Beijing Railway Station, this station is equally huge. Same modern design.

Tianjin Railway Station

TIANJIN

We took the escalator going up, out into a huge circular open space. There's a huge globe relief at the center floor. Officially welcoming us to Tianjin.

Globe Relief

A river called the Haihe River separates this station from what seemed like an awesome mall right across. It is the Jinwa Plaza. It looked so grand from a far, it begs us go there to check it out.

Haihe River

We went around and crossed a small bridge to get up-close and personal.

As we walked towards the bridge and into the bridge, I looked around at the surrounding areas. There were more structures that caught my attention. A giant clock sculpture, called the Century Clock. A tall sexy building, called the Jinta Tower. And a cable bridge further down along the river, called the Ligonglou Bridge.

CENTURY CLOCK
This giant clock sculpture was placed in a rotunda or roundabout as a symbol of the beginning of the Chinese modern industry in Tianjin.

JINTA TOWER
The Jinta Tower is also called the Tianjin World Financial Center. I personally called it the sexy building because of its shape. An award-winning building for its structural engineering design.

Century Clock & Jinta Tower

LIGONGLOU BRIDGE
From a distance, this dramatic cable bridge looks very futuristic in design. It spans over the Haihe River.

Ligonglou Bridge

JINWA PLAZA
I imagined it like we were in Europe. The Jinwa Plaza is gorgeously landscaped in a very elaborate floral arrangements. Although the flowers they used were artificial, it was beautiful nonetheless.

Jinwa Plaza

The buildings were European in style (like I am some architect who knows buildings 😊).

It is one of the many, i mean, obscenely many empty malls in China waiting to be occupied. I have watched a special report on 60 Minutes about China's Real State Bubble. It was all about these malls and residential towers, being built in China, in the hundreds, and have yet to be occupied. If you notice on these photos, we had the place all to ourselves. It's probably why it was landscaped with "temporary" silk flowers. Purely aesthetic in purpose.

Jinwa Plaza

Cerulean Blue Cabs
After exploring Jinwa, we went back to the train station to hail a cab. To explore more of the city.

I noticed that taxis were all cerulean blue. There were throngs of taxis milling around the train station exits, so it was easy to get one.

Blue cabs

HEPING DISTRICT
The taxi took us to Heping District, the financial center of Tianjin.

The city's streetscapes were very European. It was lined with charming houses of art deco. Tianjin accumulated many fine European flairs as the city was once shared by countries like Italy, Germany, France, Russia, Great Britain, Austria, and Belgium. All of which left permanent marks to the city. Most notable of which were the villas which now provides a striking appearance of the city.

Heping

Definitely has all the elements of an European city.

City Juxtapose
As we continued walking towards the inner neighborhood, I saw some high-rise buildings jutting into the skies behind some dilapidated courtyards of the old Chinese Hutongs. Rickshaws, old grey bikes, little eateries, all inter-mixed with the grand European landscapes of the outer hood.

Heping District

Since Tiajin is often overlooked by travelers, there were far less locals here that speak English. We have not encountered a single person who speaks English.

Eating lunch at a small eatery was an adventure. We couldn’t read the Chinese menu; they couldn’t explain what's in it. But we managed to order a weird kind of soup.

Finding where we were was another challenge. But with some essential notes from our receptionist back at the hostel, we have some Chinese phrases translated in english with us handy. We were able to show it to the police and some random people. It helped us find our way back to the railway station going back to Beijing.

Please continue reading on to ➡️ PART 14.
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CHINA: What Can You Possibly Do There for 8 Days? Part 14

The Great Wall is synonymous to China. It is an absolute must-see especially when in Beijing.

The Great Wall of China, Mutianyu

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA

Being the most popular tourist destination in China, it is best to be aware of the usual pit falls that come associated with visiting the Great Wall. Having been researched about it quite extensively over reading blogs prior to our visit, plus with my own personal experience, I will part some bit of pointers to those who would-be visitors for the first time.

First, try NOT to take the ¥100 tour locals offer you. These peddlers were around the Forbidden City or at the malls. These are usually group tours that's why it seemed cheaper, but you only get 2 hours on the wall, then leave. Yes it comes with some other mediocre places to see. But really, you need at least half a day or more to truly immerse yourself to this amazing work of history – this well-over 2,300 years old wall.

You can go to the wall without a tour guide. Just know where to get a ride (explained below) and you’re good to go.

My idea of a tour group is, you stay together, everything is timed. Not appealing to me.

DONGZHIMEN STATION
The day we planned for the Wall was far the most anticipated day of our China trip. So very early that day, we took the subway train to the Dongzhimen Bus station. We have agreed upon to ourselves that we take the cheapest way to explore the Wall. Commute.

As anticipated, the bus station was packed with commuters. Heading to just everywhere. Chaotic and definitely confusing to foreign travelers. There's a help desk at the entrance of the terminal if one needs one.

A number of local guides approached us offering their cars and vans for the wall tour. A particular older couple was ever so persistent to us. The lady, being able to speak good enough English, convinced us that in-fact, it's more convenient to hire them privately (90RMB), not with a group but just us.

Considering we were three (multiply 3x the bus fares, back and forth, plus the bus transfers, it was indeed an advantage. Note: you need two bus rides to reach the wall. So in short, we settled for them instead.

They patiently waited for us while we ate breakfast at McDonalds inside the terminal - an advantage you can never have when you take a group tour.

I went to the restroom. Dingy and gloomy. I found myself elbow to elbow with men as I peed over this one continuous long urinal on the floor right on our feet.

The Van Trip
The private mini-van trip from Dongzhimen Bus terminal to Mutianyu Great Wall took about 2 hours of absolute pure fun ride, except the time when we stopped at a toll gate and our lady guide asked us for the toll fees. I refrained from further questioning her when she told me; “yes, you have to shoulder the toll fee kids, and sorry if I forgot to tell you”; It was minimal so I let it slide.

The Eerie Road
The highways were wide with about 6 or 8 lanes if I remember it correctly. Very light traffic that day. We exited and passed through a western-like wild-wild-west type village. Dusts swirled behind us as we passed the dirt road. Grey wooden-saloon-type dwellings. Occasional people popping out in sight.

We threaded thru an eerie road, lined up with hundreds of bald trees painted white at the base of its trunk. It's a long stretch of monochromatic landscape. Very photographic.

Our lady guide was a no talker, but she was more than willing to answer any questions you throw at her. She’s got this mom-like quality in her. The husband/driver doesn’t speak English but he has a nice aura in him. They made the ride very pleasant and somewhat informative.

The Walls
There are several Wall tours to choose from, each in different parts of Beijing. The Badaling, the Jinshanling, the Huanghuacheng, the Mutianyu, and so on.

Base on a brochure we got at Starbucks, each was labeled differently. One labeled as 'the most popular'. I equate 'popular' as swarming with tourists and must be the favorites of tour companies.

Mutianyu was labeled as 'for the adventurous'. Described as being one very steep and dangerous. It only means no family-type group here – less tourists?. And that sounded perfect to me. And so Mutianyu it was!

THE GREAT WALL OF MUTIANYU
We arrived at Mutianyu Great Wall at 1PM, past lunch time. About 90km north of Beijing. After quickly ate our doggy-bag McDo, we bought tickets for the cable car ride up to tower 14.

There were two separate companies that offer cable chair lifts. One, takes you to tower 6 and the other one takes you to the higher section of the wall - tower 14.

We took the lift to tower 14. From tower 14, you can either start towards the right side that goes down to all the way to tower 1. To the left side, it goes up to towers 15 to 23 and beyond.

You can go as far as you can muster to either direction and you will reap the breathtaking view of the wall winding over the mountains.

From tower 14 we started climbing up to tower 21. There were just a handful of people on the wall, mostly backpackers (true enough to the brochure's description). This section of the wall was built during Qi Dynasty on 550-77AD. It is now heavily restored and it's very apparent with its new bricks.

Tower 18 to tower 20 was very steep with many steps. Very dangerous and definitely deadly if one is not careful. Absolutely not for kids. One wrong step and you can tumble down to your demise. The reason why my other friend backed out early on at tower 18. He chose to stay put and just waited for us.

Towers 21 to 23 have just recently been opened to the public. It offers a different kind of perspective. Besides being farther from the base, it gave a sense of greater heights and calmer surroundings.

The sceneries from the top were mesmerizing with the wall snake-ing off over the hills from the distance. The fading layers of the surrounding mountains were soothing if not hypnotic. It was a life-reflecting moment being there with my best travel buddy and being far from everyone.

And beyond tower 23 was closed to the public, although not prohibited per se. It was sort of a go-at-your-own-risk kind of prohibition because there’s no guard to stop you or anything. We even came across one backpacker that came from that off-limit section. I asked him what’s there to see. He just encouraged us to continue, so we did. The section was treacherous; the walls were eaten by the mountain and covered with dried twiggy bushes. Half side of the wall crumbled down below the ravine. We tried to reach at least one tower. It was in a state of disrepair - the bricks, the walls and steps were loose and unsteady.

I peed (because I had to), like a dog, marking a spot and declared, "here's a place I once stood". A moment like that, I think is something I will never forget. It is one reason why explorations to me give me such unparalleled pleasure and great self-gratification.

It took us 4 hours to explore and back. Quite a feat. Time did not permit us to explore 13 down to 1 where some great huge towers were located.

Back to the Base
Along the way, down to the base, comes an array of souvenir stalls lined up on both sides of the path offering all kinds of trip mementos. At the very base were vendors of dried fruits, an attention-grabbing assortment of colorful and exotic fruits.

Frozen Waterfalls
One worth mentioning. As we headed back to the highway, we passed by a place where we saw an amazing view of a frozen waterfalls. Our guide was nice enough to stop the car so I can take some quick few shots of the falls.

As we tried to get closer to have a better look, the care-taker of the place where we parked came charging at us and told us not to take pictures of the falls. I thought, what a selfish prick! It's nature, not his naked wife.

No, not even when our lady guide asked him nicely. He didn't budge. Anyway, with my quick reflex, I was able to steal a couple of shots. Click click!

How to Get to the Great Wall of Mutianyu
Take the bus at Dongzhimen Bus terminal or the best way is to hire a private tour at the bus station. Look for the older couple we hired. She actually gave me their business card but I lost it. See the photos above.

Please continue on to PART 15.

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