The Great Wall is synonymous to China. It is an absolute must-see especially when in Beijing.
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| The Great Wall of China, Mutianyu |
THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA
Being the most popular tourist destination in China, it is best to be aware of the usual pit falls that come associated with visiting the Great Wall. Having been researched about it quite extensively over reading blogs prior to our visit, plus with my own personal experience, I will part some bit of pointers to those who would-be visitors for the first time.
First, try NOT to take the ¥100 tour locals offer you. These peddlers were around the Forbidden City or at the malls. These are usually group tours that's why it seemed cheaper, but you only get 2 hours on the wall, then leave. Yes it comes with some other mediocre places to see. But really, you need at least half a day or more to truly immerse yourself to this amazing work of history – this well-over 2,300 years old wall.
You can go to the wall without a tour guide. Just know where to get a ride (explained below) and you’re good to go.
My idea of a tour group is, you stay together, everything is timed. Not appealing to me.
DONGZHIMEN STATION
The day we planned for the Wall was far the most anticipated day of our China trip. So very early that day, we took the subway train to the Dongzhimen Bus station. We have agreed upon to ourselves that we take the cheapest way to explore the Wall. Commute.
As anticipated, the bus station was packed with commuters. Heading to just everywhere. Chaotic and definitely confusing to foreign travelers. There's a help desk at the entrance of the terminal if one needs one.
A number of local guides approached us offering their cars and vans for the wall tour. A particular older couple was ever so persistent to us. The lady, being able to speak good enough English, convinced us that in-fact, it's more convenient to hire them privately (90RMB), not with a group but just us.
Considering we were three (multiply 3x the bus fares, back and forth, plus the bus transfers, it was indeed an advantage. Note: you need two bus rides to reach the wall. So in short, we settled for them instead.
They patiently waited for us while we ate breakfast at McDonalds inside the terminal - an advantage you can never have when you take a group tour.
I went to the restroom. Dingy and gloomy. I found myself elbow to elbow with men as I peed over this one continuous long urinal on the floor right on our feet.
The Van Trip
The private mini-van trip from Dongzhimen Bus terminal to Mutianyu Great Wall took about 2 hours of absolute pure fun ride, except the time when we stopped at a toll gate and our lady guide asked us for the toll fees. I refrained from further questioning her when she told me; “yes, you have to shoulder the toll fee kids, and sorry if I forgot to tell you”; It was minimal so I let it slide.
The Eerie Road
The highways were wide with about 6 or 8 lanes if I remember it correctly. Very light traffic that day. We exited and passed through a western-like wild-wild-west type village. Dusts swirled behind us as we passed the dirt road. Grey wooden-saloon-type dwellings. Occasional people popping out in sight.
We threaded thru an eerie road, lined up with hundreds of bald trees painted white at the base of its trunk. It's a long stretch of monochromatic landscape. Very photographic.
Our lady guide was a no talker, but she was more than willing to answer any questions you throw at her. She’s got this mom-like quality in her. The husband/driver doesn’t speak English but he has a nice aura in him. They made the ride very pleasant and somewhat informative.
The Walls
There are several Wall tours to choose from, each in different parts of Beijing. The Badaling, the Jinshanling, the Huanghuacheng, the Mutianyu, and so on.
Base on a brochure we got at Starbucks, each was labeled differently. One labeled as 'the most popular'. I equate 'popular' as swarming with tourists and must be the favorites of tour companies.
Mutianyu was labeled as 'for the adventurous'. Described as being one very steep and dangerous. It only means no family-type group here – less tourists?. And that sounded perfect to me. And so Mutianyu it was!
THE GREAT WALL OF MUTIANYU
We arrived at Mutianyu Great Wall at 1PM, past lunch time. About 90km north of Beijing. After quickly ate our doggy-bag McDo, we bought tickets for the cable car ride up to tower 14.
There were two separate companies that offer cable chair lifts. One, takes you to tower 6 and the other one takes you to the higher section of the wall - tower 14.
We took the lift to tower 14. From tower 14, you can either start towards the right side that goes down to all the way to tower 1. To the left side, it goes up to towers 15 to 23 and beyond.
You can go as far as you can muster to either direction and you will reap the breathtaking view of the wall winding over the mountains.
From tower 14 we started climbing up to tower 21. There were just a handful of people on the wall, mostly backpackers (true enough to the brochure's description). This section of the wall was built during Qi Dynasty on 550-77AD. It is now heavily restored and it's very apparent with its new bricks.
Tower 18 to tower 20 was very steep with many steps. Very dangerous and definitely deadly if one is not careful. Absolutely not for kids. One wrong step and you can tumble down to your demise. The reason why my other friend backed out early on at tower 18. He chose to stay put and just waited for us.
Towers 21 to 23 have just recently been opened to the public. It offers a different kind of perspective. Besides being farther from the base, it gave a sense of greater heights and calmer surroundings.
The sceneries from the top were mesmerizing with the wall snake-ing off over the hills from the distance. The fading layers of the surrounding mountains were soothing if not hypnotic. It was a life-reflecting moment being there with my best travel buddy and being far from everyone.
And beyond tower 23 was closed to the public, although not prohibited per se. It was sort of a go-at-your-own-risk kind of prohibition because there’s no guard to stop you or anything. We even came across one backpacker that came from that off-limit section. I asked him what’s there to see. He just encouraged us to continue, so we did. The section was treacherous; the walls were eaten by the mountain and covered with dried twiggy bushes. Half side of the wall crumbled down below the ravine. We tried to reach at least one tower. It was in a state of disrepair - the bricks, the walls and steps were loose and unsteady.
I peed (because I had to), like a dog, marking a spot and declared, "here's a place I once stood". A moment like that, I think is something I will never forget. It is one reason why explorations to me give me such unparalleled pleasure and great self-gratification.
It took us 4 hours to explore and back. Quite a feat. Time did not permit us to explore 13 down to 1 where some great huge towers were located.
Back to the Base
Along the way, down to the base, comes an array of souvenir stalls lined up on both sides of the path offering all kinds of trip mementos. At the very base were vendors of dried fruits, an attention-grabbing assortment of colorful and exotic fruits.
Frozen Waterfalls
One worth mentioning. As we headed back to the highway, we passed by a place where we saw an amazing view of a frozen waterfalls. Our guide was nice enough to stop the car so I can take some quick few shots of the falls.
As we tried to get closer to have a better look, the care-taker of the place where we parked came charging at us and told us not to take pictures of the falls. I thought, what a selfish prick! It's nature, not his naked wife.
No, not even when our lady guide asked him nicely. He didn't budge. Anyway, with my quick reflex, I was able to steal a couple of shots. Click click!
How to Get to the Great Wall of Mutianyu
Take the bus at Dongzhimen Bus terminal or the best way is to hire a private tour at the bus station. Look for the older couple we hired. She actually gave me their business card but I lost it. See the photos above.
Please continue on to PART 15.
First, try NOT to take the ¥100 tour locals offer you. These peddlers were around the Forbidden City or at the malls. These are usually group tours that's why it seemed cheaper, but you only get 2 hours on the wall, then leave. Yes it comes with some other mediocre places to see. But really, you need at least half a day or more to truly immerse yourself to this amazing work of history – this well-over 2,300 years old wall.
You can go to the wall without a tour guide. Just know where to get a ride (explained below) and you’re good to go.
My idea of a tour group is, you stay together, everything is timed. Not appealing to me.
DONGZHIMEN STATION
The day we planned for the Wall was far the most anticipated day of our China trip. So very early that day, we took the subway train to the Dongzhimen Bus station. We have agreed upon to ourselves that we take the cheapest way to explore the Wall. Commute.
As anticipated, the bus station was packed with commuters. Heading to just everywhere. Chaotic and definitely confusing to foreign travelers. There's a help desk at the entrance of the terminal if one needs one.
A number of local guides approached us offering their cars and vans for the wall tour. A particular older couple was ever so persistent to us. The lady, being able to speak good enough English, convinced us that in-fact, it's more convenient to hire them privately (90RMB), not with a group but just us.
Considering we were three (multiply 3x the bus fares, back and forth, plus the bus transfers, it was indeed an advantage. Note: you need two bus rides to reach the wall. So in short, we settled for them instead.
They patiently waited for us while we ate breakfast at McDonalds inside the terminal - an advantage you can never have when you take a group tour.
I went to the restroom. Dingy and gloomy. I found myself elbow to elbow with men as I peed over this one continuous long urinal on the floor right on our feet.
The Van Trip
The private mini-van trip from Dongzhimen Bus terminal to Mutianyu Great Wall took about 2 hours of absolute pure fun ride, except the time when we stopped at a toll gate and our lady guide asked us for the toll fees. I refrained from further questioning her when she told me; “yes, you have to shoulder the toll fee kids, and sorry if I forgot to tell you”; It was minimal so I let it slide.
The Eerie Road
The highways were wide with about 6 or 8 lanes if I remember it correctly. Very light traffic that day. We exited and passed through a western-like wild-wild-west type village. Dusts swirled behind us as we passed the dirt road. Grey wooden-saloon-type dwellings. Occasional people popping out in sight.
We threaded thru an eerie road, lined up with hundreds of bald trees painted white at the base of its trunk. It's a long stretch of monochromatic landscape. Very photographic.
Our lady guide was a no talker, but she was more than willing to answer any questions you throw at her. She’s got this mom-like quality in her. The husband/driver doesn’t speak English but he has a nice aura in him. They made the ride very pleasant and somewhat informative.
The Walls
There are several Wall tours to choose from, each in different parts of Beijing. The Badaling, the Jinshanling, the Huanghuacheng, the Mutianyu, and so on.
Base on a brochure we got at Starbucks, each was labeled differently. One labeled as 'the most popular'. I equate 'popular' as swarming with tourists and must be the favorites of tour companies.
Mutianyu was labeled as 'for the adventurous'. Described as being one very steep and dangerous. It only means no family-type group here – less tourists?. And that sounded perfect to me. And so Mutianyu it was!
THE GREAT WALL OF MUTIANYU
We arrived at Mutianyu Great Wall at 1PM, past lunch time. About 90km north of Beijing. After quickly ate our doggy-bag McDo, we bought tickets for the cable car ride up to tower 14.
There were two separate companies that offer cable chair lifts. One, takes you to tower 6 and the other one takes you to the higher section of the wall - tower 14.
We took the lift to tower 14. From tower 14, you can either start towards the right side that goes down to all the way to tower 1. To the left side, it goes up to towers 15 to 23 and beyond.
You can go as far as you can muster to either direction and you will reap the breathtaking view of the wall winding over the mountains.
From tower 14 we started climbing up to tower 21. There were just a handful of people on the wall, mostly backpackers (true enough to the brochure's description). This section of the wall was built during Qi Dynasty on 550-77AD. It is now heavily restored and it's very apparent with its new bricks.
Tower 18 to tower 20 was very steep with many steps. Very dangerous and definitely deadly if one is not careful. Absolutely not for kids. One wrong step and you can tumble down to your demise. The reason why my other friend backed out early on at tower 18. He chose to stay put and just waited for us.
Towers 21 to 23 have just recently been opened to the public. It offers a different kind of perspective. Besides being farther from the base, it gave a sense of greater heights and calmer surroundings.
The sceneries from the top were mesmerizing with the wall snake-ing off over the hills from the distance. The fading layers of the surrounding mountains were soothing if not hypnotic. It was a life-reflecting moment being there with my best travel buddy and being far from everyone.
And beyond tower 23 was closed to the public, although not prohibited per se. It was sort of a go-at-your-own-risk kind of prohibition because there’s no guard to stop you or anything. We even came across one backpacker that came from that off-limit section. I asked him what’s there to see. He just encouraged us to continue, so we did. The section was treacherous; the walls were eaten by the mountain and covered with dried twiggy bushes. Half side of the wall crumbled down below the ravine. We tried to reach at least one tower. It was in a state of disrepair - the bricks, the walls and steps were loose and unsteady.
I peed (because I had to), like a dog, marking a spot and declared, "here's a place I once stood". A moment like that, I think is something I will never forget. It is one reason why explorations to me give me such unparalleled pleasure and great self-gratification.
It took us 4 hours to explore and back. Quite a feat. Time did not permit us to explore 13 down to 1 where some great huge towers were located.
Back to the Base
Along the way, down to the base, comes an array of souvenir stalls lined up on both sides of the path offering all kinds of trip mementos. At the very base were vendors of dried fruits, an attention-grabbing assortment of colorful and exotic fruits.
Frozen Waterfalls
One worth mentioning. As we headed back to the highway, we passed by a place where we saw an amazing view of a frozen waterfalls. Our guide was nice enough to stop the car so I can take some quick few shots of the falls.
As we tried to get closer to have a better look, the care-taker of the place where we parked came charging at us and told us not to take pictures of the falls. I thought, what a selfish prick! It's nature, not his naked wife.
No, not even when our lady guide asked him nicely. He didn't budge. Anyway, with my quick reflex, I was able to steal a couple of shots. Click click!
How to Get to the Great Wall of Mutianyu
Take the bus at Dongzhimen Bus terminal or the best way is to hire a private tour at the bus station. Look for the older couple we hired. She actually gave me their business card but I lost it. See the photos above.
Please continue on to PART 15.
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